Why Using Salt Chlorinators in a Gunite Pool is Bad

How to Minimize Staining.

Staining of cementitious surface is a problem in traditional and salt water pools. These stains can develop almost immediately or over time. When stains develop gradually, the pool owners may not realize the problem until it’s too late.

Stains caused by leaves in the pool, metals in the source water, and exposed rebar will impact any type of pool. However, other causes of staining, such as galvanic corrosion and metals in the salt itself, are much more of an issue with salt water pools. Since salt water pools are unique, this article will address ways to help prevent stains in these systems.

Prime causes
The warning signs of staining in salt water pools include mild streaking down the sides of the pool, or discolored pool surfaces or water. Water discolorations can range from blue-green to dark brown. Interestingly, a significant contributor to staining can be the naturally occurring contaminants found in pool salt itself.

All salt molecules have the same chemical makeup — sodium chloride (NaCl). However, pool salt is not 100 percent pure sodium chloride; it contains different types and levels of impurities. Where the salt comes from and how it was produced — mined from underground salt deposits, mechanically evaporated, or evaporated from saline ponds (solar) — affects the levels and types of contaminants found. Manganese, iron and copper are responsible for the majority of staining issues.

The shape of the salt crystal is often an indicator of salt purity. Generally speaking, the more irregularly the salt crystal is shaped, the more impurities are either “locked” within the salt’s molecular structure or clinging to its surface. This is especially true of solar and mined salt, since these salts undergo little if any processing to remove naturally occurring contaminants.

On the other hand, some brands of mechanically evaporated salt are purer, having a more uniform, cubic shape. Mechanical evaporation involves solution mining and very high heat to produce salt from underground deposits. The high heat used to evaporate the salt actually eliminates many of the organic contaminants found in solar or mined salt.

Despite the additional processing it receives, some mechanically evaporated salt still contains high levels of stain-causing metals. Therefore, some manufacturers employ an additional purification step, called brine treatment, to remove these metals.

But even if high-purity pool salt is used, improperly applying it can also cause stains. If undissolved salt is allowed to remain on a cementitious pool surface, it can cause efflorescence, a type of staining. To put it simply, calcium carbonate is a major structural component of plaster, and it’s not very soluble in plain water; but high salt concentrations greatly increase its solubility.

In a salt water pool, the impact on plaster is minimal since the salt concentration is only about 3,200-3,500 ppm. However, the salt concentration in the immediate vicinity of an undissolved pile of salt on the pool floor could be well over 300,000 ppm. This concentration of salt is high enough to dissolve the calcium carbonate in the plaster, effectively weakening it.

In fact, the calcium carbonate quickly returns to its insoluble state as soon as it contacts pool water with “normal” concentrations of salt (i.e., 3,200-3,500 ppm). As the calcium carbonate falls out of solution, it attaches to and discolors surfaces. This discoloration is especially visible on colored plaster finishes.

Choose the right salt and add it properly
The greater the purity of the salt, the better it’s suited for use in a salt water pool. Ask your supplier to verify the manufacturing method and level of stain-causing metals in the salt you use — they should be able to guarantee its quality, or provide you with a product specification sheet showing the level of stain-causing minerals. Never use salt products not specifically designed for pool use, such as water conditioning pellets or rock salt. They contain more impurities, plus additives that should not be used in pools.

Even when using a high-grade pool salt, you should still follow best practices when adding it to the pool. For new pools, observe the 28-day waiting period before adding salt to ensure that the plaster cures properly. Then, add salt in the deep end — while the pump is running — and brush the salt until it is dissolved completely. In addition, consider adding a stain preventer when setting up a new salt water pool.

Test regularly
Staining due to metals in source water, corrosion of metallic equipment, or salt impurities is exacerbated by pH that is too high or too low. Weekly testing for pH and monthly testing for metals (if source water is high in stain-causing metals or if pools contain copper heaters) is recommended.

Treat when needed
There are many stain removal products available that can be used in salt water pools. Some of the more advanced salt products also contain anti-stain agents, and some manufacturers offer performance guarantees with them.

Avoid phosphorous-based stain-fighters, since they break down into orthophosphates, which are nutrients for algae and promote the formation of phosphate scale in the chlorine generator. Physically removing dissolved metals can usually be accomplished with sequestering agents and filter aids.

Fortunately, by following sound product application procedures and maintenance principles, stains can often be prevented. That way, customers can enjoy all the benefits of their salt pools without the worry of unsightly stains.

Source: Geoffery Brown- Pool and Spa News | 3.11.2011

Wholesale Fiberglass Pools

At Expert Pools, we have successfully eliminated the middleman. You can contact us or visit our showroom to choose from the variety of pool styles we offer. Once you have made your purchase, your pool shell will be prepared for delivery at our warehouse. We can then handle every aspect of the installation process. We maintain all of our own equipment, so we can keep maintain complete control throughout the construction process.

Our fiberglass pools are designed using the very latest technology. This has enabled us to develop unique fiberglass composites and protective layers that allow our pools to withstand conditions that would destroy the average fiberglass model and almost every concrete pool on the market. The durability of our pools gives you the chance to get the most out of your investment, and our heating accessories and enclosures let you swim all year round.

Preparing Your Home

There are a few things that have to be taken care of when you are preparing for the arrival of your pool. These steps will ensure that a pool can be placed in your yard or home, and they will speed up the installation process. It is important to note that each municipality has its own ordinances regarding in-ground pools. Having a survey on hand when you are visited by one of our staff members can help expedite the installation process because it will make it easier to determine whether elements of your property (like underground lines and overhead lines) meet municipal standards.

Having access to your backyard is essential when installing your pool. As we handle the installation process on our own, we know what we need to get the job done. In general, we require an opening of close to nine feet and an overhead clearance of 18 feet. Don’t worry if your backyard doesn’t fit these specs, though–there are steps we can take to make sure you get the pool of your dreams.

Vinyl Pool Maintenance

Proper water balance will help maximize the life of vinyl swimming pool liners

Vinyl pool liners are protected by special additives and coatings that can withstand extremes of sun, temperature and constant exposure to chemically treated water. However, even the highest quality vinyl liner is subject to staining, wrinkling, shrinking or discoloration if the pool water is not balanced and treated correctly.

This type of damage to the liner is often associated with common missteps in maintenance. Here, we look at the signs and solutions to four different problem areas in maintaining vinyl liners.


The addition of a single chemical can damage a pool liner if the substance is not circulated sufficiently. Chemicals such as chlorine can settle in the deep end of the pool and bleach the liner if they are not allowed to circulate for several hours before a pool is closed for the season.

Spot bleaching of vinyl liners can also occur if undissolved particles of calcium hypochlorite or other slow-dissolving sanitizers are allowed to settle on the bottom of the pool. This can be prevented by pre-dissolving sanitizers in a bucket of pool water and adding the solution by pouring it through a sieve.

Using large, single doses of hydrochloric (muriatic) acid to adjust pH or total alkalinity levels can also damage liners. The acid then can chemically attack the liner’s printed pattern, since it is not sufficiently blended with pool water.

When a pool is closed for the season, professionals should install a winter cover that tightly seals around the perimeter. This will prevent the accumulation of leaves and insects during the winter months. This organic debris left on vinyl surfaces can cause staining and bleaching, and fungi that produces a pink stain on the vinyl.


Printed vinyl liners with base colors such as white, turquoise, light blue, grey and dark royal blue have excellent resistance to chlorine bleaching. Medium blue vinyl liners are, however, more susceptible to bleaching or loss of color if exposed to high concentrations of trichloroisocyanurate stabilized chlorine. This can happen in a period as short as 6 to 24 hours.

The immediate effects of other types of chlorine such as dichloroisocyanurate, calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) are not as rapid or severe, as long as they are not mixed with other chemicals during or shortly after being added to the pool. Solutions of these types of chlorines can be applied directly to the liner for several hours to bleach out stains without adversely affecting the vinyl. If the concentrations of these types of chlorine are allowed to remain higher than the recommended levels of 5 ppm for superchlorination or 10 ppm for shocking for long periods of time, gradual bleaching of most blue liners will occur.

Be aware that certain combinations of pool chemicals at high concentrations can cause bleaching of vinyl liners.

Pool tar

Sticky substances, often referred to as “pool tar” or “pool goo,” can adhere and coat part of vinyl pool liners. This is sometimes caused by the interaction of quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) used in some algaecides and decaying organic material such as leaves, grass and insects.

Even chlorine can interact with quats to form a sticky material if both the chlorine and algaecide exceed the recommended levels. Quats can easily come into contact with high chlorine levels in automatic chlorinators, resulting in a gummy material being gradually fed into the pool, where it eventually precipitates on the liner.

Gummy material from the chlorinator can form when organic materials from cosmetics or tanning lotions are oxidized by high chlorine concentrations, resulting in a beige waxy substance.

Although it is not harmful to swimmers, sometimes a light coating of vinyl plasticizer material, which turns dark when contaminated with dirt, may rise to the surface of newly installed liners during the first idle period of winterization. This phenomenon is attributed to a lack of circulation, as it has never been observed in a pool that has been circulated over the winter. The material will almost always reabsorb in two to three weeks if the water is allowed to warm up (to over 21° C / 70°F) and circulate before being shocked with chlorine (at 6.0 ppm to 8.0 ppm) every other day.

Wrinkling and stretching

Vinyl increases dimensionally as it absorbs water, and wrinkles can develop even in properly-sized liners. The cause of this excessive water absorption is believed to be high levels of chlorine or bromine. If the sanitizer level is allowed to remain high, as much as five times the normal amount of water can be absorbed, which makes controlling water chemistry essential to maintaining the integrity of the liner.

Immersion testing of liner samples on chlorinated and brominated water in the 20 ppm to 50 ppm range shows that weight gains continue to climb indefinitely without leveling off, causing the size of the liner to increase by 1- to 3 percent.

To avoid stretching and wrinkling in vinyl liners, chlorine levels should not be allowed to remain higher than 3 ppm for an extended period, while bromine levels should not be allowed to exceed a maximum of 4 ppm.

Although peak chlorine levels of 5 ppm to 10 ppm are required for superchlorination, they should be allowed to return to the 2-3 ppm range by natural dissipation.

Controlling pH levels is also important in preventing wrinkling because pH affects sanitizer activity. A low pH of less than 7.0, for example, can cause a vinyl liner to discolor, wrinkle, stretch, lose tensile strength and increase in weight. A high pH level above 7.6 can lead to scaling or staining of the liner.

The information in this article is based on the strength of high quality, 100 percent virgin vinyl sheeting. Installers should always be aware of the quality of the vinyl being used in the pool liners they purchase, install and service.

Source: Rick Chaplin- Pool and Spa News | 1.15.2010

Vinyl Liner Pool Stains

Recognizing the vinyl-liner stains associated with various problems can inform sound diagnoses and effective solutions.

Protected by special additives and coatings, vinyl pool liners can withstand the extremes of sunshine, heat, cold and constant exposure to chemically treated water. However, even the highest quality vinyl liner is subject to staining if proper water balance is not maintained, or if debris is allowed to remain in the water.

The following technical information should help pool professionals avoid the black and pink stains that often plague vinyl liners — and deal with them when they arise.

Black staining

Black staining that appears on vinyl pool liners can originate from a number of sources, and primarily falls into two categories: metal staining and black algae. Depending on the type of stain, different treatments are required to correct the problem.

Copper, iron and manganese may be introduced into the pool via source water. They can form oxides in chlorinated pool water, and can precipitate out of solution, resulting in stains on the pool liner. These stains are generally black, brown or gray. Copper can also dissolve from copper or brass fittings in the plumbing when pool water pH conditions of less than 7 occur. This metal may also be present in some algaecides, though most now use copper in a chelated or complex form that remains in solution.

The presence of metal staining can be confirmed by treating a small portion of the stained area with a pH reducer to dissolve the metals. If the stain can be removed by this treatment, the staining is a result of metal deposits, and the remainder of the stains can be treated in a similar manner. If not, the stain is likely due to an organic source such as black algae (see below). If the staining is due to metals, the pool water may need to be treated with a metal treatment — such as a sequestering or chelating agent — once the staining has been removed, in order to prevent a reoccurrence.

Black algae appear as a series of small black spots on the pool liner. They are very tenacious organisms with a chlorine-resistant coating. First, brush the algae spots using a nylon brush to open up the algae coating. Next, test the pH of the water and reduce it to the lower limit of the normal operating range (7.2) to improve the effectiveness of the chlorine. Then, superchlorinate the pool and add a dose of a quaternary (“quat”) type algaecide. Make sure to follow the recommended dosage from the manufacturer, as excessive usage may result in foaming. Continue to brush the algae stains to maximize the penetration of the chemicals. Vacuum the dead algae to the drain once they have been killed.

Twenty-four hours after superchlorination, add a dose of a polymer algaecide (“polyquat”) as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Polyquats are more expensive than regular quaternary algaecides, but they’re also more effective in controlling these resistant types of algae.

Once the staining has been removed, resume normal chlorination and water balance. Remember, the best protection against algae growth is a constantly held free chlorine level in the range of 1-3 ppm, a total alkalinity between 80 to 120 ppm, a pH between 7.2 to 7.6, and a calcium hardness of 200 to 300 ppm.

Another type of gray/black colored stain can occur when dye-producing microorganisms colonize the back side of a vinyl liner. The microbial dye becomes visible on the pool side of the liner as it wicks through the liner’s material, creating an irregularly shaped blotch. The stains on the pool side can be temporarily diminished through superchlorination, but they’ll reappear, since the source of the stain originates from the back side of the liner. Installation of a polyethylene barrier between the vinyl liner and the walls and floor of the pool can provide a barrier to these types of organisms.

Pink staining

Pink blotches that appear on liners are also likely caused by bacterial dye. Because the dye is highly soluble in the plasticizers used in flexible PVC pool liners, it can easily migrate through the liner.

The portion of the dye that is exposed on the surface can be bleached by chlorine; however, new dye will continue to migrate to the surface. The bacteria can become established on either the water side or back side of the liner. Growth on the water side may occur if free chlorine levels are allowed to drift below 1.5 ppm at the same time that organic matter and bacteria have accumulated in the water.

Superchlorination at this stage will rid the pool water of the contamination. But if the dye has penetrated below the surface, staining tends to linger indefinitely.

Growth on the back side may not take place directly on the liner, but rather on some other material in contact with the liner such as soil, or on a backing material like foam, felts or taping. Even though an anti-microbial agent is incorporated into the vinyl formulation, the dye can migrate from unprotected components and stain areas well beyond the point of infestation. If a lot of pink dye is visible on any backing material, it will very likely be the source of the problem.

If the liner is replaced, all contaminated materials must be removed and the entire pool shell (floor and walls) must be disinfected with a liquid chlorine spray or other suitable disinfectant.

Special problems are presented by locations that have high water tables, which continually bring water loaded with micro-organisms to the back side of the liner. Using disinfectants at these sites may be ineffective, since they will be quickly washed away. A possible defense may be some type of barrier layer; either a plastic sheet, perhaps polyethylene between the pool shell and liner, or a barrier coating of some kind applied directly to the pool shell.

Following the diagnosis techniques here, it’s often possible to head off vinyl stains before they spread, and possibly even to remove them — if they’re caught in time.

Source: Carl Flieler- Pool and Spa News | 11.25.2011

Viking Fiberglass Pools

When Expert Pools was asked to be part of the television show Extreme Home Makeover, we used a Viking fiberglass pool shell that was a perfect fit for the backyard we were transforming. Viking pools and spas are durable, well-crafted, and easy to install. There are also several choices with regard to shape and size, which is not always the case with fiberglass pools.

The typical Viking fiberglass spa is 50 square feet. However, there are a number of designs to choose from, and custom-sized spas can be created. The Tahoe and the Shasta are two of the most popular. They provide ample seating room, and they even offer a person the opportunity to stretch out and enjoy the soothing power of the warm spa water.

Design Additions for Viking Fiberglass Pools


A number of design elements can be added to Viking pools. You may want to step out into your backyard and gaze upon a pool with a stream running through it, or a water fountain cascading in the center. Pools can be found with different colored surfaces, and tiles can be used to create monochromatic patterns or mosaics.

Fiber optic lighting can have an enormous impact on the way a pool looks. It can even light up an entire backyard, lending illumination and mood to any pool party. Viking fiberglass pools can be lit in four different colors. If a waterfall or stream has been put in place, it can be lit in an entirely different shade than the rest of the pool.

Lethal Light

Ultraviolet radiation can cleanly and rapidly destroy many organic contaminants — but it’s most useful when properly applied.


Between   the rising costs of electricity and growing consumer demand for “green” water   treatment solutions, ultraviolet (UV) radiation is becoming an increasingly   popular tool for disinfecting pools and spas.

However, like any sanitation technology, UV isn’t an end-all solution — its   effects are rapid but limited, and it often requires help from other types of   sanitizers.

Here, we talk with professional chemists about the exact nature of UV, the   means by which it sanitizes, and the most effective ways of implementing it.   A fuller, more detailed understanding of these principles will inform   decisions about where and how to apply UV for maximum effectiveness.

What is UV?
In the simplest terms, UV is a kind of light — to be more precise, it’s a   specific range of electromagnetic radiation wavelengths, most of which lie   outside the range visible by humans. While we can generally see light whose   wavelength falls between 390 and 750 nanometers (nm), UV’s wavelengths are   between 100 and 400 nm.

As with most artificial light, UV is produced by a bulb designed to generate   radiation in a specific range of wavelengths. “There are medium pressure and   low pressure UV lamps, and each one produces a different range of UV   wavelengths,” says Ellen Meyer, the Charleston, Tenn.-based tech service   manager for Lonza.

Shorter wavelengths indicate higher energy, and the UV range is subdivided   along a sort of energy scale, progressing from UVA (315 to 400 nm) to UVB   (280 to 315 nm) to UVC (200 to 280 nm) to high-energy radiation known as   vacuum UV (100 to 200 nm). Most UV radiation is at least somewhat effective   at killing microorganisms and breaking down organic compounds, but the   high-energy radiation of vacuum UV is the most powerful — and thus, the most   deadly to microbes. Still, even lower-energy UV is effective at deactivating   many organisms that resist the disinfection effects of chlorine.

Like other kinds of light, UV travels fast and doesn’t hang around — a   property that has its ups and downs. On the positive side, this means UV   reaches its entire target area almost instantly, and destroys the organic   contaminants it touches in a matter of seconds. The downside is, UV can’t   diffuse throughout the water the way, say, chlorine can — so its   effectiveness is limited to the path along which it’s projected, and it can’t   maintain a sanitizer residual in the pool.

Thus, some kind of additional sanitizer is a must in pools using UV. “Even in   Europe, where UV and UV-generated ozone are commonplace, additional chlorine   is required by health authorities,” says Corinne Lehr, assistant professor at   the California Polytechnic State University Department of Chemistry and   Biochemistry in San Luis Obispo, Calif.

Another significant concern in UV-sanitized pools is the replacement and   disposal of bulbs. “The bulbs have to be replaced every six to nine months,   and that costs $750 to $1500 every time,” says Jeff Jones, the Dallas-based   North American sales director of the residential pool division at Del Ozone.   In addition, Jones points out that the bulbs contain the chemical mercury,   whose disposal many cities regulate closely.

What does UV do?
Just as the sun’s UV rays can cause damage to our skin if we don’t wear   sunscreen, artificially generated UV can cause severe disruptions to the biochemistry   of microorganisms in pool water.

A predominant explanation for UV’s damage to microbes hinges on the damage   this radiation causes to DNA — the self-replicating molecule necessary for   life to reproduce. “Once an organism’s DNA is sufficiently damaged, that   organism can’t reproduce anymore,” Meyer explains. “So even if you were to   swallow some of the organism, it won’t be able to grow and reproduce and   cause an infection — you’ve pretty much disarmed it.”

But UV’s effects may also play more immediate roles in microbe destruction.   “Similarly to how UV gives us sunburns, it can cause physical damage to   microbes,” Lehr says. “But that damage can be even more serious to them — it   can kill them.”

The degree to which UV inactivates or kills an organism depends on multiple   factors, including the wavelength of the UV and the biological makeup of the   organism. The chart above details some kill and inactivation figures for   several common microorganisms under UVA radiation.

Along these same lines, UV can be used to destroy other organic contaminants,   like the chloramines that form when chlorine reacts with bather wastes in the   water. The only problem is, the molecular pieces of some chloramines stick   around in the water, and may re-form into their original compounds if they’re   not filtered out quickly enough — as can be seen in the charts to the right.

In the first chart, levels of monochloramine (NH2Cl) and nitrogen   trichloride (NCl3) are both lower after UV than before UV, but the   level of dichloramine (NHCl2) can sometimes be slightly higher. In   the second chart, it’s equally clear that even after a dose of UV, some of   the chloramines have re-formed, and their levels have actually risen. “So you   actually see more of certain disinfection byproducts with UV than you do   without it,” Meyer says.

How can UV be used effectively?
UV performs its work most powerfully when it’s used as a supplementary   disinfection system, supplementing other sanitation products such as   chlorine.

Some microorganisms, such as the notorious cryptosporidium, are highly   resistant to chlorine, because they produce hard shells known as cysts.   Others, such as black algae, produce slimy coats called biofilms, which also   can be tricky for chlorine to penetrate.

However, UV is often highly effective at breaking down these defenses. By   combining UV with chlorine, it’s possible to cut through the organisms’   protective layers and attack their vulnerable bodies and DNA — then oxidize   and destroy the remaining organic contaminants. This “one-two punch” can keep   even a large public pool free from infectious and otherwise annoying   invaders.

It’s also important to note than UV rays only attack organic matter in areas   they can directly reach — so if corners of the pool are “in shadow,” so to   speak, other disinfection methods will be necessary for keeping those areas   clear of algae and bacterial growth.

To ensure that the UV lamp is as effective as possible, it pays to examine   the shape of the pool carefully, and place the lamp in a location where its   rays will reach as many surfaces as possible. Another alternative is to   install an inline UV system, which bathes a closed chamber in UV light as   water continually flows through it.

Finally, it’s worth mentioning that UV won’t have an effect against metal   stains or phosphates — these issues will need to be treated with other   chemical solutions, such as sequestrants and phosphate removers. However, if   levels of these chemicals are kept within acceptable ranges, UV will prove a   powerful ally against any unwanted microbes that try to move in.

The bottom line is, there’s no end-all system for treating a pool — no   perfect solution that kills every organism in the water, produces no   disinfection byproducts, and operates in a way that’s completely safe and green.   Still, the highest priority is to keep swimmers free from infection and   irritation — even if the best way to do that is different for every pool. A   working understanding of how UV disinfection can fit into an overall   sanitation scheme will inform much clearer decisions about how best to apply   this technology.

Source: Ben Thomas- Pool and Spa News | 1.27.2012

Using Mineral Sanitizers

Ionic silver and copper can eliminate algae and bacteria while reducing chlorine demand

Silver is used as a powerful bactericide in many products, and copper is used as a common algaecide. As water contacts these minerals, positively charged ions are released; these destroy negatively charged contaminants. And that makes these particular minerals well-suited for use as supplemental sanitizers in residential swimming pools and portable spas.

Ions at work

Silver and copper are most effective in water in their ionic form. That means the molecules are independent from other compounds and carry a positive charge. These charged ions are attracted to negatively charged organics such as bacteria and algae. Once attached, these ionic elements destroy the organics by penetrating their cell walls.

Because the ions are unaffected by sunlight or heat, they can remain active in water for long periods. They are only removed by reacting with the organics or from splash-out. There must be a constant flow of these charged ions introduced to the water in order for this process to be effective.

Active and passive ionization
There are two types of devices manufactured today that accomplish this process — one using an active method and the other using a passive method.

Active-method devices create ionic silver and copper by applying a low-level direct current to electrodes that are plumbed into the filtration system. The electrodes, which are made from combinations of silver, copper and sometimes zinc, quickly release their ions into the water as they erode from electrolysis. The electrodes must be replaced periodically, and the water must be tested regularly to ensure the silver and copper levels do not rise to a point where staining could occur.

Sequestering agents are recommended with this method to prevent any possibility of staining. These devices were common in the 1980s and ‘90s, but they never reached mainstream status as sanitizers. Most pool professionals feel they were oversold as a total replacement to chlorine, or were installed and used improperly. Recent technology seems to take into account the lessons learned from the past, but ionizers are not what most people think of when mineral sanitizers are discussed.

Passive-method devices are usually what come to mind when discussing mineral sanitizers. They do not use any electricity, instead utilizing a flow-through cartridge containing a substrate that is coated with silver or impregnated with a combination of silver and copper. The substrate is made of small pebble-sized pieces that are retained in the plastic cartridge. The cartridge is then installed in a vessel that is plumbed into the pool’s filtration system. As the water passes over the substrate, silver ions or a combination of silver and copper ions are slowly released.

Sequestering agents are not necessary, since the ions are released so slowly. The cartridge contents will remain active for up to 6 months in pools and 4 months in portable spas. Passive devices are also a perfect complement to salt-water chlorinators. They do not interfere with chlorine generation, and many users find that they can turn the chlorine production rate down, making the electrolytic cell last longer. Passive devices are a preferred method of using copper and silver vs. adding them via a powder or liquid form, because those products usually are mixed with chemicals.

Safe sanitizers
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) plays an important role in the regulation of mineral sanitizers. While the copper and silver elements are considered safe, when an efficacy claim is made regarding algae or bacteria control, the EPA regulates its use. Therefore, make sure the product you use has an EPA registration number, lists the active ingredients, and shows all the cautions that the EPA requires. Though the EPA regulates and verifies the claims of mineral sanitizers, they do not regulate the product’s potential to stain or cause other problems. Look for products that are guaranteed to work and guaranteed not to stain the pool.

Benefits of mineral sanitizers

Neither the active nor passive methods eliminate the need for chlorine in a swimming pool, because minerals lack the ability to oxidize dead contaminants. Fortunately, the two biggest benefits of using minerals are a reduction in the amount of chlorine needed to maintain a residual, and the ability to maintain a lower residual. With a mineral sanitizer, you will notice at least some of the following:
• No more algae
• Fewer complaints about skin and eye irritations
• Fewer shock treatments required
• Fewer pH adjustments needed
• The TDS reading does not increase as quickly

The best testimonials for mineral sanitizers come from the pool professionals who use them. They report many benefits, such as getting rid of problem algae spots, lowering chlorine use, more consistent chlorine readings, and pools that stay sparkling clear with less work.
Source: Dan Kellog- Pool and Spa News | 8.13.2010

Swimming Pool Manufacturers

There are marked differences between the in-ground fiberglass pools that are produced by different manufacturers. At Expert Pools, we pride ourselves on offering our customers the very best fiberglass pool designs available on the market. Our products are far stronger and will last much longer than the average fiberglass pool.

Fiberglass pools generally have a vinyl ester level and a polyester level. In the majority of designs, there is no protective layer placed between these two sections. Our pools, however, utilize a ceramic core that strengthens the entire pool. It also creates a waterproof blockade that guards the pool’s finish, greatly extending its lifespan. Expert fiberglass pools are also equipped to withstand other damaging forces such as freezing temperatures and algae penetration.

Contacting Swimming Pool Manufacturers

A number of manufacturers have taken to doing business over the Internet. While we can be reached online, we encourage anyone interested in buying a fiberglass pool to do extensive research before purchasing a pool. It is not something that should be done sight unseen. If you cannot make it out to one of the showrooms, we can schedule a convenient in-home meeting with one of our reps.

The pools we distribute are stronger, thicker, and more technologically advanced than the pools most manufacturers are producing. We also offer the best surface and structural warranties in the industry. Plus our pools can be equipped with unique accessories such as inlaid tiles, custom colored finishes and speakers.

Swimming Pool Games

Almost everyone has spent a summer day out by the pool playing a good old-fashioned game of Marco Polo. It is a simple game that requires no extra accessories and gives people the chance to jump in and out of the pool as much as they want. In fact, there are a number of pool games like Marco Polo that need no nets, balls, hoops, or anything else.

Those who are interested in playing more complex games can use their pools to double as basketball courts, volleyball courts, or even floating golf greens. Materials for pool games are relatively inexpensive. Also, the best brands are built to last for several seasons so amateur athletes will definitely get their money’s worth.

Pools Designed for Games

The average pool is not designed to support a full-fledged volleyball game. They are either too deep, too uneven, or designed in a way that makes it virtually impossible to put up a net. There are, however, fiberglass pools that were designed with games in mind.

At Expert Pools, our selection of fiberglass pool designs and styles makes it possible for a person to find a pool that is perfect for any pool game. There are no inconveniently placed bends, and the depth of the pool stays relatively constant so most people will have no problem standing. Also, the surface of a fiberglass pool is much smoother than that of a concrete pool, so people don’t have to worry about scraping their feet as they move in for overhead smashes or leap for touchdown catches.

Swimming Pool Builders

A person should never hire a swimming pool builder without first doing some research. Putting in a pool is expensive and it is a long-term investment, so it should not be taken lightly. It is a good idea to talk to at least three different contractors before settling on one. Each contractor should give a quote. Unfortunately, some still charge for this service, so it is always helpful to find contractors who provide free cost estimates.

Price should not be the only determining factor when choosing a pool builder. Their past work needs to be examined, and references should be checked just as they are when a person applies for a job. Speaking with the builder’s most recent clients can be extremely beneficial because those people will have a firm grasp on the builder’s current work practices.

Fiberglass Pool Builders

Expert Pools is the number one fiberglass pool distributor in Illinois, Iowa, Ohio, Kentucky, Missouri, Minnesota, New York, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, and Wisconsin. We have achieved and maintained our status at the top of the industry by offering the best fiberglass pools and products on the market, and by working directly with our customers to ensure that they are getting exactly what they want from a pool.

We are one of the few companies that offer free, in-home estimates. This means that someone can visit your house and discuss a variety of design options with you. He can also assess your construction needs firsthand to come up with a quote that is reflective of your particular situation, rather than an inaccurate quote based on generic information.