Sizing a Salt Chlorinator

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Sizing a salt chlorinator based on pool gallonage may result in inadequate sanitation — but a few calculations can ensure a correct fit.

While electrolytic chlorine generators (ECGs) for residential pools have traditionally been sized by pool volume, ECGs for commercial pools take bather load into account. Commercial pools are highly regulated, and in order to maintain appropriate chlorine levels, it has proven necessary to know what kind of usage the pool receives. Is it a health club, where exercisers and children swim all day long, or is it a senior center, where members swim only occasionally?

Anticipating usage — and planning for the “worst case scenario” — has made it relatively common to size commercial units based on expected chlorine demand along with volume. Residential units, on the other hand, can be more difficult to judge.

Sometimes new pool owners aren’t sure what their usage will be. Traditionally, it has been easier for homeowners and builders to assume average usage and size ECGs based on volume alone. Gallons are relatively straightforward; usage often isn’t.

But pools with oversized usage and undersized ECGs eventually exhibit problems related to improper sanitation, including hazy water, odors, algae, and even bather illness. An undersized ECG can also lead to shortened cell life, since ECG life expectancy can be decreased when units are overworked trying to maintain proper chlorine levels.

For example, a unit may have a lifespan of seven years based upon a run time of 12 hours per day during the season. If that unit must run 24 hours per day to keep up with chlorine demand, it will last between three and four years rather than the full seven.

It’s difficult to understand the extent of this problem because we don’t know how many salt water pool sanitation issues are correctly attributed to an improperly sized ECG. If a pool owner has repeated issues with maintaining enough chlorine to properly sanitize his pool, do pool professionals ask about ECG size related to pool volume and usage? They may. But they may also attribute the problem to other causes and recommend supplemental chlorine shocks to solve the problem.

So, how can pool builders and retailers size ECGs with chlorine demand as part of the equation?

Calculation factors
Start by having a simple conversation with the pool owner. How many swimmers will use the pool on a daily/weekly basis? Will small children or frequent exercisers be using the pool? (Compared to average swimmers, both tend to add more organics to the water, increasing chlorine demand.) Will pets have an occasional swim? (While not recommended for a variety of reasons, many homeowners still let pets enjoy their pools.) This will start the process of determining whether a pool has a light, medium or heavy chlorine demand.

Then, review other factors that tend to drive up chlorine demand. Are there flowering trees, plants or other vegetation surrounding the pool? Are fertilizers or pesticides used near the pool regularly? Does the climate include unusually warm weather or regular heavy rains? How many hours does the pump run each day? Does the source water contain organic material or added chloramines for sanitation? As one can see, many factors can influence any given pool’s chlorine demand.

These types of questions can help you determine whether a pool will have light, medium or heavy demand during the season. Generally speaking, pools with light demand can stick close to an ECG size based upon gallons (i.e., a 20,000-gallon ECG for a 20,000-gallon pool). Pools with medium demand will need 1.5 times the size (a 30,000-gallon ECG for a 20,000-gallon pool). And pools with heavy demand will
require double the size (a 40,000-gallon ECG for a 20,000-gallon pool).

It’s important to note that these sizing recommendations assume that the pump is running for at least eight hours per day — the minimum recommended run time. Pump run time is an important consideration for sizing ECG units. If the pump will run for shorter periods, an ECG with higher chlorine output should be used.
When in doubt, don’t be afraid to oversize the ECG. While it may cost more for the pool owner initially, that cost will be more than offset by the benefits in water quality and the extended lifespan of the ECG.

If the ECG is sized correctly, it will produce and maintain at least one part per million of free chlorine. (One to four parts per million is the recommended range for salt water pools.) The amount of free chlorine available can be easily tested and measured to ensure equipment is sized appropriately.

Sizing ECGs based on gallons is a fairly straightforward task. Taking usage-related chlorine demand and pump run time into account adds a level of complexity to the equation. However, customers will have better results in the long run if we take the time to factor in pool usage and other chlorine demand factors, which leads to loyal customers, word-of-mouth referrals, and a positive presence in the marketplace.

Source: Bob Harper- Pool and Spa News | 6.10.2011

Servicing Salt Water Pools

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Electrolytic chlorine generation can simplify some aspects of pool maintenance — but it requires adjustments in others.

If there’s one ingredient that most pool chemical regimens have in common, it’s chlorine. Almost since the beginning of the pool industry, service technicians across the country have been hauling around drums of the sanitizer, using test kits to monitor its concentration, and adjusting water chemistry to maximize its effectiveness.

But over the past decade, a growing number of pools have switched to a somewhat different system: Electrolytic chlorine generation. By using electricity to drive certain chemical reactions in salt water, electrolytic chlorine generators (ECGs) produce chlorine on-site.

Although the chemistry of an ECG-chlorinated pool bears many similarities with that of a traditionally chlorinated pool, it also involves some unique factors.

Here, through the expert advice of scientists and service techs, we examine these differences and provide some field-tested advice for servicing pools with ECGs.

Practical considerations
Perhaps the most obvious area in which ECG-chlorinated pools differ from traditionally chlorinated ones is in chemical transportation and storage. Because barrels of chlorine (or chemical compounds including chlorine) don’t need to be trucked to the site and stored there, many safety issues associated with these barrels — such as fumes and spills — are no longer major concerns.

However, the ECG itself adds some new tasks to the traditional maintenance regimen. Among the most important is keeping the salt cell clean. The chemical reactions involved in generating chlorine from salty water also contribute to the accumulation of calcium scale within the ECG — over time, this can lead to less efficient chlorine generation, or even equipment damage. Thus, it’s crucial to perform regular checks on the cell, and address any scale buildup with a light acid wash.

“The first year of a new ECG’s life, you can usually get away with cleaning the cell once every three or four months,” says Cliff Brummett, owner of CTB Pools LLC in Phoenix. But year by year, Brummett goes on to explain, the process of chlorine generation tends to drive the water’s calcium hardness and alkalinity upward, making more frequent cleanings necessary. “By the second year,” he says, “you typically have to start cleaning the cell every month.”

Salt water, and the process of electrolysis, can also contribute to certain kinds of degradation, such as galvanic corrosion. In fact, says Alison Osinski, Ph.D., principal-owner of Aquatic Consulting Services in Avalon, Catalina Island, Calif., “Some manufacturers may say their components were not NSF tested in salt water pools, and therefore [using them in a salt water pool] voids the warranty.”

This is especially a concern for small components in heaters, such as gaskets and O-rings. “You’ll need to pay more attention to those components, and replace them more often than you would in a traditionally chlorinated pool,” Osinski says. Weekly checkups of these components, and replacements of any that are beginning to show signs of damage, will go a long way toward keeping the equipment trouble-free.

Another consideration, which might seem obvious but is often neglected, is the fact that the system’s pump must be running in order for the ECG to produce chlorine. “Since pumps on residential pools usually don’t run 24 hours a day, we can get problems with these residential systems that we don’t see with commercial systems, because they don’t circulate the water enough,” Osinski says. Thus, it’s important to be sure the system is generating enough chlorine to maintain a proper residual in the time it takes the pump to run through one daily cycle.

Balance concerns
When it comes to the chemistry of ECG-chlorinated pools, most of the acceptable ranges specified by organizations like the Association of Pool & Spa Professionals and the Independent Pool and Spa Service Association will still apply — in other words, the water’s calcium hardness, total alkalinity, pH and temperature should be maintained in the same ranges as they would for a traditionally chlorinated pool.

However, there’s one important respect in which ECG-chlorinated water differs: its level of total dissolved solids (TDS). Whereas most traditional recommendations place the ideal range for TDS at approximately 300 to 1,800 ppm, salt water often contains 3,400 ppm of TDS due to the salt alone — in addition to as much as 1,000 ppm of other miscellaneous TDS.

ECG manufacturers typically specify an ideal range of salinity for pools using their devices — so it’s important to check the salinity of the water at least once a month. When performing these checks, be sure to use a test method that measures the salinity level in particular; not just the overall TDS — test kit instructions will specify which parameter each test addresses.

“A standard TDS test is going to measure all the salt, plus any other dissolved solids,” explains Ray Denkewicz, worldwide product manager for sanitization and chemical automation at Hayward Industries in North Kingstown, R.I. “So you might get a reading of 5,000 ppm, when in fact the salt contribution to that may be 3,000.”

Thus, distinguishing between these two types of TDS contributions is critical for maintaining balanced water. And an effective way to get a clear sense of the pool’s non-salt TDS is to perform a TDS test when adding salt to the pool for the first time. “That’s your starting TDS,” says Geoffrey Brown, developmental scientist at Pristiva Inc. in Overland Park, Kan. “Once your TDS increases 1,500 ppm above that, then you should start thinking about draining some of the water and replacing it with fresh water.”

ECGs’ tendency to drive pH and total alkalinity upward can impact other chemical parameters as well. “Not only can high pH result in bather discomfort, it also makes the chlorine less effective,” Brown says. This means that while a chlorine test might show that the water’s chlorine level is acceptable, if the water’s pH is too high, that chlorine will exist in a much less effective chemical form. Thus, weekly pH checks are essential for effective sanitation.

In these high-pH conditions, some say they’ve found that higher TDS creates a greater potential for calcium carbonate and other soluble calcium compounds to form scale deposits on surfaces throughout the pool and equipment. “The calcium will want to precipitate out of solution,” Osinski explains. “It can start clogging the pipes up, creating milky water, and causing scale.”

However, other scientists point out that a higher TDS would actually lead to more corrosive water, by lowering the water’s Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) value. “Higher TDS makes the water more corrosive,” says Karen Rigsby, leader of technical services at BioLab Inc. in Lawrenceville, Ga. “It’s inside the chlorine generator where you get the likelihood of scale formation, and that’s because of the high pH inside there.”

If calcium scale does become a problem in an ECG-chlorinated pool, experts say it’s generally reasonable to adjust the pH slightly downward with muriatic acid. Still, it’s a smart idea to calculate the water’s LSI value on every visit to the site, and visually inspect surfaces for any signs of corrosion, as well as calcium deposits.

Additive interactions
Even if the pool’s water has been balanced into an ideal LSI range, it’s still helpful to be aware of some additional chemical traits of ECG-chlorinated pools. Aside from their higher salt-contributed TDS, the other main chemical distinction of these pools is how their cyanuric acid (CYA) concentration must be managed.

As many service techs know, CYA is a chemical that protects chlorine from breaking down under the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) rays. Many traditionally chlorinated pools are chlorinated with trichlor tablets, which contain both chlorine and CYA. However, the chlorine in ECG-chlorinated pools must also be protected with cyanuric acid (CYA) — industry organizations like the APSP recommend an ideal range of 30 to 50 ppm — which means it’ll be necessary to add this chemical manually from time to time. Techs say approximately once per year is usually sufficient, but it still pays to test the pool’s CYA concentration every month to ensure that the level hasn’t dropped due to splash-out or backwash.

“But CYA doesn’t degrade,” Rigsby says. “It’s not something you have to replace all the time, but you want to keep an eye on it.”

Some service techs even recommend switching to tablets during colder months, when certain ECG models automatically shut down. “We use tabs during the winter, because our water gets colder than 55 degrees, and most cells shut off at 55,” Brummett says. This can help prevent algae blooms and other microbe infestations during the winter.

Trichlor tablets contrast with ECG chlorination in another way, too — while these tablets tend to drive the water’s pH downward, the pH of an ECG-chlorinated pool tends to drift upward (as discussed in the “Balance concerns” section earlier). This means the water balance regimen that keeps traditionally chlorinated pools balanced can send an ECG-chlorinated pool’s LSI value well above the acceptable range.

Sequestrants can lead to a few problems in ECG-chlorinated pools. Some simply aren’t as stable in the presence of high levels of chlorine — in other words, the levels inside the ECG itself — which can make them less effective. Also, some sequestrants are based on phosphates, which break down into orthophosphates — chemicals that combine readily with calcium in the pool to form calcium phosphate on the ECG. In any case, many manufacturers make sequestrants that are designed specifically for use in ECG-chlorinated pools; the packaging will usually specify this.

Some dry acids — such as sodium bisulfate — can leave sulfates in the pool, and these can contribute to scale problems similar to those caused by phosphate-based sequestrants. “And if you’re unlucky enough to live in a part of the country where you’ve got barium in the source water, then you can get barium sulfate in the ECG, and that is next to impossible to get off,” Brown adds. Pool test kits don’t generally include a test for barium; the best way to find out if it’s in the local source water is to consult the municipal water authority.

Bromine may also contribute to ECG trouble. Though this chemical can be a helpful supplemental algaecide in traditionally chlorinated pools.

“But you don’t want to use it in a salt chlorinated pool,” Denkewicz says, “because the bromide ions interact adversely with the electrodes in the cell.”

As the ECG’s electrodes make chlorine from chloride ions, they’ll also make bromine from bromide ions. “Bromide is harsh on the sensitive electrode,” Denkewicz explains; “it can damage it, and decrease the overall lifetime of the cell.”

Though these potential issues can cause problems for ECG-chlorinated pools, keeping them in mind will help ensure that many pitfalls associated with ECGs are avoided. As many ECG experts point out, chlorine is chlorine, no matter how or where it’s generated and introduced into the pool — but even so, a proper understanding of issues unique to ECG-chlorinated pools can extend the life of both the pool and its equipment.

Source: Ben Thomas- Pool and Spa News | 12.30.2011

Selecting and Installing a Pool Lift

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Experts discuss how to select and   install pool and spa lifts to meet the Americans With Disabilities Act.

Last   year, the Americans with Disabilities Act was codified   to spell out exactly what requirements public pools and spas need to meet in   order to become compliant with the law.

The act applies to all public pools, new and existing. This includes nearly   all commercial pools and spas, with the primary exception being apartment and   condominium pools, which are governed by the Fair Housing Act, and registered   landmarks. pools must come into compliance by March 15, 2012.

The ADA mandates that most vessels have at least one primary form of access —   for pools, a lift or sloped entry; for spas, a lift, transfer wall or   transfer system. Pools measuring more than 300 perimeter feet must have a   second means of access, which can include a lift, ramp, transfer wall,   transfer system or stairs. (There are a few exceptions, noted in the ADA   standard. Click here for a link to the law.)

For many, adding a lift will be the simplest way to comply. Read on to find   out how to best select and install these products on existing commercial   pools and spas to make them ADA-compliant.

Menu of options
When helping the client select a lift, the decision should be guided by   budget and how the unit will be used. Property owners can choose between   three basic models: portable, removable and permanent. Lifts can be fueled by   water or a battery and each has its benefits and drawbacks.
 
 
Portable   lifts can be wheeled to various locations. When in use, the unit is steadied   by a system of brakes and weights to counter the user’s mass. There is no   installation other than minor assembly, which makes these models the quickest   and easiest to get going. They are, however, the most expensive to purchase,   and they weigh several hundred pounds, so it takes a fairly strong person to   move one alone.

Removable lifts can be pulled out of a sleeve embedded in the deck. This   allows some versatility, as the chair can be moved out of the way when   operators know it will not be used; or it can be taken to another sleeve for   use at a different spot in the pool or a different vessel altogether.

“If you have swim competitions, for instance, you’re not going to want   something permanently mounted in the deck and in the way,” says Craig Sears,   owner of Sears Pool Management Consultants Inc. in Sandy Springs, Ga. “You   may have a referee who needs to be walking up and down the deck.”

A cap covers the sleeve and sits flush with the deck so it doesn’t present an   obstruction.

By contrast, a permanent lift stays in place once it’s set, often attached to   an anchor buried in the deck. This is most appealing when the unit will be   used often or if the client is trying to save money, as they are the least   expensive.

However, both removable and permanent lifts require installation of an anchor   or sleeve in the deck, which adds cost. “On paver decks, you have to pour   quite a substantial concrete ballast,” says Alvaro Mendoza, president of   Commercial Energy Specialists in Jupiter, Fla. “It wouldn’t just be an   anchor, it would be almost a concrete substructure. That does bring the cost   a lot closer.”

Each power-source option also has its own benefits and drawbacks. For those   who want a portable model, there is no choice — it must be battery-powered.   When considering a removable or permanent unit, facilities owners must weigh   the choices.

Water-powered lifts rely on hydraulic pressure to move the chair up and down.   Some like the reliability — all that must be maintained is proper water   pressure, and there is no threat of batteries dying. This may also be the   choice for those who prefer to keep electricity away from the pool whenever   possible.

However, getting water to these lifts requires either running a garden hose   across the deck or installing permanent lines. A booster pump may also be   added to maintain the needed level of pressure. Historically, many owners   have opted for the hose, but some advise against it, citing a tripping   hazard. “Here, the health department doesn’t allow obstructions on the pool   deck, so you couldn’t just run a hose across the deck,” Mendoza says. Some   codes also require that excess water released from these systems be piped   away from the pool, he adds.

Battery-powered lifts run off a 24-volt, rechargeable unit that manufacturers   say will last four to five years with proper maintenance. They don’t require   as much drilling into the existing deck — however, some professionals would   rather keep electricity away from the water, and others don’t like the idea   of having the battery die.

Installation
When it comes to installation, portable lifts, as expected, are the most   simple. The product is basically pre-assembled by the manufacturer, and the   contractor only needs to set the brake and place the counter weights to   steady the unit.

Installing either type of lift takes more time, but it isn’t difficult for   those who have experience with other products attached to the deck, like   starting platforms and ladders. The main requirement is knowing how to embed   the anchor or sleeve into the concrete.

The anchor or sleeve must be positioned so that the chair will clear the   coping or gutter — manufacturers can advise on exact placement. Also, the   deck should be at least 4 inches thick, to provide proper support and   accommodate the anchors, which are generally that long. “Otherwise, it’s   really not enough to stabilize the lift,” says Richard Pentoney, Florida   distribution representative for Aqua Creek Products in Missoula, Mont.

(If the deck measures less than 4 inches thick, use the guidelines   outlined here.)

There are two ways to set anchors and sleeves: dual epoxy or cement. Be sure   to consult the manufacturer’s instructions to see if one is more appropriate   than the other.

To follow the epoxy method, core drill a hole just large enough for the anchor   or sleeve to slip through while maintaining the tightest fit possible. “You   can’t use epoxy if you’re making a 2-inch hole for a 1-1/2-inch anchor,”   Pentoney says. “That’s too much space. It needs to be a tight fit for the   epoxy to hold.”

Stop drilling as soon as the bit has gone through the concrete. Otherwise,   the drill may damage plumbing lines hidden beneath the deck.

Be sure the hole is plumb. Put some epoxy in the hole and on the anchor.   Place the anchor in the hole, ensuring it is level with the deck. Pentoney   likes to place a bolt inside the anchor to help handle it and push it all the   way down. Hold it in place for a few seconds, allowing the epoxy to begin   hardening.

Once the material is applied, there is a limited window of time to complete installing   the anchor before the epoxy sets. In Pentoney’s area, installers generally   have about eight minutes.
 
 
Cemented   in place
Others prefer to concrete the anchor or sleeve into place. To do this, drill   the hole so it’s a few inches larger in diameter than the anchor or sleeve.   “The [sleeves I install] are usually about 2 inches in diameter,” says   Richard Robert, president of Knorr Systems in Santa Ana, Calif. “You have to   drill about a 6- or 7-inch hole to get the [sleeve] to set properly.”

The hole may need to be flared out at the bottom to accommodate a flange at   the bottom of the sleeve or anchor and provide a thicker footing. “Imagine a   side view of an old school bell,” Robert says. “That’s basically what you’re   trying to duplicate. It provides for a more secure base of concrete going in   to secure this little anchor.”

When installing a battery-powered lift, it’s also important at this stage to   address bonding in states and municipalities that require it. (Even if not   required by law, it’s a good idea.) This can prove tricky. “It’s a bit of an   unknown when you dig or cut through the deck where you’re going to find part   of the bonding around the pool to pick up on,” Sears says. “That could be a   challenge.”

If a piece of rebar can’t be located, the contractor must find something else   to bond to, such as a screen enclosure or metal water pipe.

Fasten the bonding wire to the rebar or rod, then set the anchor in place   making sure it is absolutely plumb. Otherwise, the lift will tip to one side.

Then, backfill around the anchor with concrete or epoxy grout. “Obviously the   anchor has to be plumb,” says John Caden, director of pool lifts for   manufacturer S.R. Smith, based in Canby, Ore. “It can’t be slanted or the   lift will be slanted.”

With the anchor in place, begin assembling the lift according to the   manufacturer’s instructions.

Source: Rebecca Robledo- Pool and Spa News | 4.15.2011

San Juan Fiberglass Pools

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San Juan in-ground fiberglass pools offer a durable, low-maintenance alternative to concrete pools. Fiberglass designs tend to cost 10 to 12 percent more than those constructed from concrete or other materials, but they can actually save people money in the long run because far less will be spent on repairs and upkeep. In fact, at Expert Pools we offer lifetime warranties for the structure of our Expert line, and twenty-year conditional warranties on any cosmetic finishes. We also have several different financing options that make it easier for a person to handle the cost of a pool.

There are several fiberglass pool installers that serve customers in Illinois, Iowa, Ohio, Kentucky, Missouri, Minnesota, New York, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, and Wisconsin but we feel our products are superior to those offered by other distributors. Expert Fiberglass Pools designs have 78 percent more flexural strength and 17 percent more tensile strength, and they are 33 percent thicker than the average fiberglass model. Our pools and spas are also on the cutting edge of technology, utilizing a unique closed beam coping that allows them to withstand the harsh weather across the country.

Fiberglass Pool Styles

Fiberglass pool styles and sizes are as varied as those of concrete and vinyl lined models. Large residential pools like the Dallas  (16′ x 42′) or the Phoenix (16′ x 40′) require anywhere from 14,000 to 22,000 gallons of water and can be over eight feet deep ! Medium-sized designs like the Stockholm (14′ x 27′) and the Savannah (14′ x 32’6″) range from about three to seven feet deep and generally use under 15,000 gallons of water. We also offer small and mini designs for smaller backyards and tighter budgets.

No fiberglass pool is complete without the proper accessories. That is why we offer top-of-the-line pumps, filters, heaters, and salt water systems. We can also install a host of other items such as fencing and power covers that will keep children and anyone else safe from harm.

 

Repairing Vinyl Liners

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Experts share field-tested techniques for installing and repairing vinyl liners.

 

Vinyl liners are becoming more advanced every year. From plasticizers to UV inhibiters to thousands of color combinations, the options available to the builder and customer are nearly endless.

But even the newest liners are vulnerable to the same old issues, such as staining and punctures. Wrinkles seem to have a way of sneaking up from behind, and shrinkage can cause flotation in almost any climate. All these problems, however, have straightforward solutions.

Here, experienced pros reveal their secrets for mastering the art and science of vinyl, from installations to repairs.

Choose walls without foam
Vinyl liners are most durable when resting directly against metal wall panels. A layer of rolled foam backing puts the vinyl at risk for punctures and wrinkling, no matter what substrate it covers.

“Foam walls exacerbate liner puncturing,” says Michael Giovanone, president of Concord Pools and Spas in Latham, N.Y., a Pool & Spa News Top Builder.

Giovanone also points out that the weaker construction of a rolled foam layer lacks the holding power to keep a liner in place. “Foam lets liners creep and wrinkle,” he says, “because it doesn’t have a solid bond to the substrate or the wall.”

Imagine a piece of paper pressed against a hard surface, like a desktop; then imagine poking that paper with a sharp pencil. It’s nearly impossible to puncture the paper as long as it remains flush with the hard
surface. But lay that same piece of paper against a soft pillow, and any sharp object can rip right through it.

In short, a liner is only as strong as its weakest layer of backing.

“The backing behind a liner is the most important factor in that liner’s durability,” Giovanone says. “And the worst enemy of vinyl liners is wall foam.”

Measure and mark the liner
Fitting a liner’s beading onto the bead track can be a frustrating process. Manufacturers typically include markings on the liner’s underside to indicate its corners and center, and these can help a crew properly place the liner in the pool. But the manufacturer’s markings aren’t much help for aligning the top of the beading with the track.

“The manufacturer’s marks — the arrows — are just a rough approximation,” says John Warner, president of Done Right Pools and Spas in East Greenbush, N.Y. “And the manufacturer doesn’t put anything at the top of the bead.”

Warner, however, recommends a technique for ensuring the alignment is on target: Before unfolding a liner, measure it. Find the points where the top of the beading will actually line up with the corners of the bead track, and mark each of those alignment points on the liner’s underside.

“When I first open the liner up,” Warner explains, “I physically locate what I think is the exact spot where it’s going to line up with the corner at the top of the bead, and I make a little pencil mark at that spot on the back of the liner.”

Rethink sealing and vacuuming


During the initial installation, most crews hold the edge of the liner against the walls with duct tape or sandbags. But it’s not always possible to create a perfect seal this way. Wind, cold and dryness can quickly begin to stretch the seals, or even loosen the liner’s edges.

One possibility is to try a different approach right from the start. “Instead of duct tape,” Giovanone says, “use caulk to seal every [wall] panel before it gets bolted together.” Though this process takes more time, it creates a hardened seal that’s much less vulnerable to the elements.

Next, run the liner’s beading through the entire track. The usual practice at this point would be to leave part of the beading out of the track and tape an industrial vacuum pump behind the liner to tighten it. Giovanone says, “That’s completely wrong.” Instead, fit a vacuum pump over the top of the skimmer opening. As long as their dimensions are compatible, they’ll form a perfect seal.

“Liner vacs are manufactured to be square, and they’re meant to sit on top of the skimmer,” Giovanone explains. “It fits like a glove; you don’t need to use any tape.”

Because this scheme uses the vacuum’s shape and weight to secure the seal, it ensures a much tighter fit between the vacuum and the liner, and thus lowers the chance of wrinkles. When combined with the technique of caulking wall panels, it also avoids other taping-related issues, such as flotation.

“If you bead the liner and caulk your wall panels,” Giovanone says, “you will totally eliminate floating liners.”

Use only vinyl duct tape
If using duct tape on the liner is unavoidable, pick a brand made from vinyl. Many types of duct tape are made with cloth, which is an organic substance, and thus home to microorganisms that can quickly stain and degrade a vinyl liner.

“Pink and purple staining, which is a huge problem with vinyl liners, is actually the excretions from microorganisms,” Giovanone says. “It’s called microbiological staining, and it comes up through the
vinyl from the back.”

While shocking the pool will dissipate the appearance of the problem, this is only a temporary solution. Until the infection is totally destroyed, pink stains will continue to creep back through the liner.

The easiest way to avoid this issue is simply to avoid organic duct tape. Vinyl-based tape is inorganic, so it poses no threat to the liner.

Start filling as soon as possible
Because vinyl liners are designed to stretch to their full size under the weight of water, they’re most vulnerable to shrinkage immediately after installation, before the pool has been filled. Unless several inches of water are holding it in place, a liner may begin to shrink and float within 2 to 3 hours, even if a vacuum pump is pulling it tight.

“I’ve found that the old system of leaving the vac on, then pumping in water from the customer’s hose just doesn’t produce consistent results,” Warner says.

Instead of waiting for the hose to fill the pool, one option is to bring in about 9,000 gallons of water as your crew is finishing the installation. Once the liner’s wrinkles are brushed out and the vacuum pump is running, dump in enough water to fill the shallow end to a depth of about 6 inches.

“I always insist on it,” Warner says. “We have the water on hand as soon as installation is finished, and we dump it in the pool right away.” This prevents any shrinkage from taking hold during the first night, while the pool is being filled. Warner says this strategy is especially useful on colder nights, when liners are prone to shrinkage.

Though having water delivered does add an expense to the installation process, the benefits down the road will be well worth the initial cost. “It’s a money-saver for the customer in the long run,” Warner explains, “because the liner’s going to fit right, so it’s going to last longer.”

Hold onto that water
Groundwater seepage and shell uplift are major problems in areas with high water tables. Because vinyl pools require at least 6 inches of overdig, their sites are particularly susceptible to these issues. Hydrostatic relief valves aren’t always available to offset this danger, and the usual practice of pouring drained water onto the lawn only adds to the problem.

Fred Martin, president of Martin Pool and Spa in Pittsfield, Mass., has discovered a straightforward way to save money and prevent uplift at the same time. When draining a pool for repairs, instead of directing the flow of water to a deck drain (or the customer’s lawn), his techs pump all the drained water into tanks.

“When we go in to replace a vinyl liner,” Martin says, “we first set up some tanks to hold all the water we drain from the pool. That gives us a buildup of supply.”

When they’ve finished repairing or replacing the liner, the techs immediately return the stored water to the pool. This puts pressure back on the water table right away, and prevents the liner from floating while the pool is being refilled. It’s friendly to the environment, too.

“This way,” Martin explains, “you’re not wasting water, and you’re also making sure that if you’ve got ground water, it’s not going to come up through the sand or gunite.”

Source: Ben Thomas- Pool and Spa News | 6.25.2010

Pool Vacuums

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Pool owners know how difficult it can be to keep the water clean. A pile of leaves, branches, and wood chips seems to appear on the surface of the water just as you’ve fished out another pile of debris. While skimming flotsam and jetsam off the water can be annoying, there are other pool cleaning issues that are a greater concern. Algae and different types of bacteria can collect in the water and on pool surfaces. These invaders can cause damage to the structure of the pool, and they can irritate a swimmer’s eyes and skin.

Pool vacuums can be used to pick up leaves, but they also can keep harmful substances from getting hold of a pool. At Expert Pools, we carry vacuums that are operated by hand, but we also have automatic cleaners in stock. An automatic cleaner ensures that pool water is never stagnant; it also relieves owners of much of the maintenance work they have to do to keep their pools in good shape.

Vacuums for Fiberglass Pools

Fiberglass pools are not nearly as susceptible to algae penetration as concrete pools. However, this does not mean that fiberglass pools do not need to be cleaned on a regular basis. At Expert Pools, we are proud to offer the strongest fiberglass pools on the market, and we have vacuums and other cleaning accessories that are designed to keep those pools as clean as possible.

There are almost as many different vacuum styles as there are pool styles. There are fully functional robots that make their way across the bottom of the pool, and there are snake-like cleaners that swim along the top of the water. Paying large sums of money for the latest vacuum is not always necessary because there are a number of affordable products that are as effective as most of the overly expensive ones.

Pool Staining

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While a lot of swimming pool stains are the work of familiar culprits, many have uncommon causes

Most pool owners assess the well being of their swimming pool by what they can see: the clarity of the water and the appearance of its surfaces. As a service technician, you must be able to diagnose problems that can compromise the homeowners’ visual evaluation of their vessel. There are many common issues that lead to staining in pools, and a few not-so-well-known offenders.

Water balance


Most stains and discoloration can be traced to improperly balanced water. But even “perfectly balanced” pools have the potential to contribute to these types of problems due to the almost-daily influx of metals, minerals and other contaminants. Oxidation also is a concern.

Common organic staining scenarios


Staining and discoloration can be broken down into two main categories: organic and inorganic. Common organic causes include scale, algae, “pink slime,” white water mold and vinyl liner mold. The Langelier Saturation Index measures the corrosiveness and neutrality, or scaling ability, of water. Water, by nature, “wants” to be neutral or balanced. When pH and/or total alkalinity are high, water cannot rid itself of either of these two important components, but it can push out calcium. Scaling is one unwanted by-product of this reaction.

When heavy rains combine with hot weather and low or no sanitizer, algae in its many forms can become an issue. Mustard algae seems to vanish easily when brushed, but will reappear quickly and continue to spread if left unchecked. Black algae creates a protective gelatinous coating. It also has roots, which can penetrate a pool’s plaster, fiberglass or vinyl surfaces. Green algae can first appear as a tinting of the water, which can rapidly transform a pool into a veritable swamp if not treated. In addition to a discoloration of the water, green algae also can produce rapidly spreading stains throughout a vessel.

Pink slime actually is reddish bacteria that most of us have seen on our showerheads. It can be introduced by rain, soil and contaminated swimsuits — as can mustard algae — and can rapidly grow in circulation pipes. Like pink slime, white water mold grows in circulation piping. This contaminant resembles small floating pieces of white tissue by the time it finds its way to the pool water. Although not a surface stain, vinyl liner mold is a fungus that grows underneath a vinyl liner, which is visible as a shadow beneath its surface. Tannins, commonly associated with trees, also can find their way into pools and create staining.

Common inorganic stains and discoloration
Inorganic troublemakers include scum-line buildup, cloudy or tinted water and iron and copper stains. When suntan lotions, body oils, make-up and dirt gather at the waterline, an unsightly scum-line buildup can occur. It should be noted that organic contaminants also can contribute, though they aren’t the main culprits. If left unchecked, additional dirt and contaminants will more easily adhere to an existing scum line, creating a snowball effect.

Cloudy water is a byproduct of unbalanced water, poor circulation and poor filtration. Ironically, the response of then adding too much clarifier can worsen existing cloudiness.

Metals such as iron, copper and manganese can produce a tinting of pool water and serve as a warning of sorts that metals are present in the system. All it may take is a shock treatment to plate the metals from the water onto a pool’s surface, thus creating a metal stain. Metal stains can also potentially be introduced from well and municipal water, metallic equipment parts, pool chemicals such copper- and silver-based algaecides, certain grades of salt for chlorine generators, certain grades of chlorine, ionizers, lawn chemicals and more.

Lesser-known causes of staining


Copper cyanurate, dubbed “purple haze,” can occur when a high stabilizer level (above 100 ppm) combines with copper, creating a purple precipitant. This purple stain is bright and highly visible, often showing up on tile, spillways and pool cleaners. If left untreated, copper cyanurate eventually will adhere to all pool surfaces. Until the stabilizer level is lowered to below 70 ppm, the problem can appear to be chronic.

Another potential stain-causer: potassium permanganate. If a house’s water supply is high in iron, manganese or hydrogen sulfide, many homeowners choose an iron/hydrogen sulfide reduction filter for their water treatment system. This filter contains manganese green sand, which reduces contaminants through an oxidation/filtration process. Should green sand water mix with make-up water, it can contribute to staining. The manganese in the filter is expelled when the system recycles, and it will create a pink/purple potassium permanganate stain when it comes in contact with the pool finish.

Iron and scale are two common causes of staining in a pool, but occasionally they work together to create a more obscure form of discoloration. This hybrid stain, known as iron scale, can be particularly difficult to remove, as standard treatment doesn’t often work. The only way to alleviate this buildup of layers is to remove first the top layer of scale, then treat the iron stain that it previously covered.
Source: Jack Beane- Pool and Spa News | 4.15.2010

Pool Heater Comparisons

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Discussing the ins and outs of heating options can help clarify which one — or combination — is right for each customer.

Whether it’s new construction or an equipment replacement, today’s pool heating technologies offer a solution to every consumer’s needs.

Here, builders, servicepeople and manufacturers share insights on discussing heating options with customers. As these industry veterans explain, selecting a system is a straightforward process, but a strong knowledge base will keep the dialogue on track.

Assess expectations
The conversation about heating is likely to begin in one of two ways.

For new construction, the heating system will probably come up in the overall design discussion. If the project involves an existing pool, on the other hand, the customers’ interest will typically stem from dissatisfaction with their current heating situation, which will lead them to initiate the dialogue.

In either case, it’s a good idea to first assess the customer’s pool usage needs.

“Start by asking them how often they plan to use their pool,” says Terry Doyle, marketing manager at Raypak in Oxnard, Calif. “Are they looking for a system that allows them to turn the heater on Friday night and be swimming in warm water by Saturday? Or are they looking to maintain a constant temperature year-round?”

If quick heating is a priority for the customer, it makes sense to recommend a gas heater — although these entail a higher energy bill, they’re reliable and rapid. But if the homeowner is willing to wait a week or so to get the pool up to the desired temperature — or if the pool is going to be kept at a certain temperature for extended periods — a heat pump or solar heating system is likely to make more sense. Despite the slower speed of these options, they’re more energy-efficient than gas heaters, so they’ll involve much lower monthly bills.

It’s also important to ask how long of a swim season the customer expects to enjoy. Though every region’s climate is different, it’s beneficial to keep some general rules in mind. “If they say they’d like to extend the swim season beyond the summer months, then we look at how long they want to stretch it,” says Brian Evers, store sales manager at Dolphin Pool and Spa in Burnsville, Minn.

For those customers who want to keep swimming well into autumn, a gas heater may be the best recommendation — though again, it’s important to make the customer aware of the monthly gas costs involved. If the customer only wants to extend the season a few weeks on either end of summer, however, the combination of a heat pump or solar system with a heat-retaining pool cover may be sufficient to maintain a warm temperature.

In fact, builders, service technicians and manufacturers all recommend complementing any heating system with a cover, at least during the cooler months on the margins of the swim season. “We always recommend some type of cover — whether it be a liquid solar cover or a traditional cover — because most of the pool’s heat is lost from the surface of the water,” says Brian Diglio, president of Blue Wave Pool Service & Supplies in Hamden, Conn.

Weigh the options
The next step is to compare, side by side, the costs and benefits of each heating method — or group of methods — in which the customer has expressed interest. Telling a client that a certain type of equipment brings higher monthly costs, or that it can bring significant energy savings, isn’t always enough to fully convey the differences between options. Thus, an explanation of the exact numbers involved will ensure that customers are clear on what the system’s upkeep will entail, and will be satisfied with the purchase they make.

If the customer is interested in a gas heater, explaining the costs now can prevent surprises down the road.
“A gas heater will cost around $4,000 to install, and bring a gas bill that can range from $75 to $350 a month, depending on the time of year,” says Roy Heine, founder of Suntrek Industries in Irvine, Calif.

For some customers, these costs aren’t particularly significant. But others, Heine says, end up shutting down their gas heaters and seeking out other heating options when these monthly bills begin to pile up. Even if a full explanation of gas heating costs prevents an immediate sale, an open and honest discussion now may create an appreciative and loyal client for the future.

A heat pump installation typically comes with similar equipment costs to those entailed by a gas heater, though some heating experts say those costs may run up to $1,000 higher. Still, the monthly price tag of operating a heat pump will average somewhat lower. “You’ll typically end up with an electric bill from $75 to $500 a month, depending on the climate and the season,” Heine says.

Another aspect of heat pump usage that’s important to note is the rate at which it can raise water temperature — whereas a gas heater can often raise a pool’s temperature by as much as 10 degrees in a single day, a heat pump’s maximum is closer to two to four degrees per day, depending on the air temperature and the ratio of the heat pump’s capacity to the size of the pool.

Environmentally conscious consumers are likely to bring up solar heating, but they may need some explanation to grasp what’s involved in setting up and running one of these systems. “The average cost of a solar pool heating system is approximately $4,000 — about the same price as the other heating methods,” Heine says.

The main advantage of solar heating is that utility bills for these systems will run much lower than those associated with other heating technologies, because the only power necessary for heating water with solar panels is the electricity that runs the pool’s circulation pump. The main downside is the pace of heating — most solar systems will heat water at the same rate as a comparable heat pump: Approximately two to four degrees per day.

A possible compromise between these options is to combine a gas heater with a heat pump or solar heating system, forming a hybrid heating solution that combines low-cost efficiency with boosts of speed when needed. “If cost isn’t a factor in the project, we’d definitely introduce the option to combine multiple heating elements,” Evers says. For instance, a gas heater might be helpful to kick the pool up to a certain temperature during the first or last few weeks of the swim season, but a heat pump might be enough to maintain the desired temperature for the rest of the summer.

For a system involving solar heating, “We can plumb the solar cells in as a pre-heater, but they can function as the primary heating system,” says Dave Sizelove, president of Aquatherm Industries Inc. in Lakewood, N.J. In other words, water flows through the solar system first, then through the gas heater, which can be turned on to warm the water a bit more.

Once the water is brought up to the desired temperature, Sizelove adds, the solar system is often sufficient to maintain it there for at least several months — unless an additional boost is needed, in which case the gas heater would kick in again.

Consider mechanics
Once the customer has settled on one or more heating methods, it’s time to analyze some physical properties of the pool system as a whole. If the system involves multiple heaters or solar panels, it may be helpful to calculate the system’s total dynamic head (TDH) to ensure the pump is powerful enough to keep up the necessary flow rate.

“You always have to watch your flow, especially if you have multiple heaters,” Sizelove says. Although most modern heaters include built-in bypasses, and thus aren’t very restrictive to flow, it’s still worthwhile to double-check that these additions won’t place undue stress on the pump.

On the solar side of things, the surface area of the house’s roof or attic must be roomy enough to accommodate all the necessary panels. “A good rule of thumb,” Heine says, “is that the surface area of all the collectors combined should be roughly equivalent to the pool’s surface area in order for the system to keep the water heated effectively.”

On a broader scale, it’s also important to take a look around the area where the heater or heat pump is going to be installed, and check it for adequate venting. “We see plenty of heaters out there that are placed too close to windows, or where the installers don’t leave sufficient room for ventilation around them,” Diglio says.

Taking issues like these into account will help keep installation trouble-free. If the heating design is backed up by careful calculation, and the customer has a solid understanding of why the chosen heating options are appropriate for the project, the entire process should move along smoothly.

 

Source: Ben Thomas- Pool and Spa News | 9.16.2011

Pool Enclosures

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For most people, the swimming season never lasts long enough. Even before the weather gets too cold, pool temperatures start to drop and even a few minutes in the water can become unbearable. A pool enclosure can keep water and air temperatures warm and comfortable throughout the year.

In addition to keeping the effects of winter at bay, an enclosure adds a level of safety to a pool. Children and pets can be kept out when they are unsupervised, and alarm systems can be put in place to ward off unwanted visitors. An enclosure also keeps debris out of the pool, reduces evaporation, and increases property value.

Pool Enclosure Options

At Expert Pools, we can supply our customers with enclosures that fit almost any size of pool. If none of the standard enclosures fits a particular pool, a custom size can be created. There are several different options when it comes to an enclosure’s appearance, as well. White- or green-tinted sides are available, and there are a variety of other plexiglass color options. Shade screens and drapes can be used in an enclosure, and an extra room or pool party space can be added.

There are a number of different styles of doors that can be put into place for convenience or safety. There are handicap doors, child protection doors, disappearing screen doors, and sliding doors. Before an enclosure is installed, you’ll have the opportunity to look at all of the options closely and settle on a finished product that suits your financial, safety, and aesthetic needs.

Pool Covers

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There is nothing worse than putting on the old swimsuit and heading out to the pool, only to find that it is covered with a surface layer of algae, leaves, sticks, and other green things that do not belong there. Oftentimes, taking care of this problem will require far more than a simple cleaning. Chlorine levels might have to be adjusted, and in some cases, portions of the pool might have even been compromised.

A lot of these problems can be avoided by the use of a simple pool cover. A cover will not keep everything out of the water, but it will prevent massive buildups. It will also make the regular cleaning of the pool’s surface much easier and safer.

Solar Pool Covers

There are several specialty pool covers on the market. Some are designed to be aesthetically pleasing, while others serve a more practical purpose. Solar pool covers can be used to speed up the heating process of the pool. Even on warm days, it often takes several hours for a pool to reach a comfortable temperature. A solar cover will use the sun’s rays to their fullest and make things much nicer for a morning dip.

At Expert Pools, we carry a variety of accessories including an array of covers that can be used for small or large pool designs. We have covers that can be used at night, and others that can help protect the pool during the winter months. We also carry solar blankets and other covers that can affect a pool’s temperature.